DATELINE DECEMBER 2023: Sydney to Brisbane the middle way aboard Harley-Davidson's top-of-the-range FLTRXSE CVO Road Glide.
Part 1 – Sydney to Brisbane - the middle way.
It all began when Mick confirmed that the plan involving me collecting the 2023 FLTRXSE CVO Road Glide press bike from H-D in Sydney, and riding it back home to Brisbane, was a goer.
As the pump operator at the Ampol servo in Armidale later observed, “Talk about livin’ the dream!”
Naturally, when the good news broke, I started spending quite a lot of time studying maps and cherry picking the most favourable weather forecasts for the upcoming journey.
Talk about livin’ the dream!
A full-noise CVO no less! The top of the two-wheeled range. And ride it home for Christmas. Pinch me!
As he was delivering this confirmation, Mick was also at pains to point out that there was ‘some jealousy that would need to be dealt with’ regarding the assignment.
I believe the subtext was, ‘Mainly from me!’
And like I also replied to that friendly operator in Armidale, “Indeed”.
So it began.
Friday started with an early Uber, a plane ride, and another Uber.
All that rigmarole went smoothly enough and was long forgotten immediately on arrival at Harley’s Australian HQ.
Not long after I was in the loading bay and the affable Elliot was giving me an introduction to the bike.
I already had a pretty good understanding of the bike’s systems - being the magazine’s total geek and all.
But nonetheless, Elliot paired up my phone and helmet to get me going with the basics.
It all worked seamlessly, so I loaded up the panniers with my carry-on luggage and cameras, wheeled the magnificent machine slowly out of the driveway, eased on to the main road, and another incredible motorcycle adventure began.
First South.
I had already saved the ride from Headquarters to my parents home with the Harley online ride planner - and had subsequently re-saved it – as well as the ride from Sydney to Brisbane – to the H-D app before I left Queensland.
Now it was just a matter of opening the app and sending the route to the bike – and its on-board navigation system showed me the way to a bonus early Christmas Dinner and overnight stay with my dear Ol’ Man on the Southside of town.
Sydney has changed. It’s a long time since it was my hometown, and although I probably knew the way well enough, bringing up a map on the new 312mm wide, TFT, high resolution, touch screen ‘TV’ that now comprises the dashboard of the CVO … well, it was welcome backup.
It has a sunshade built into the dash and the screen remained bright and legible in all conditions throughout the journey. It even has different display modes: Cruise, Sport and Tour that present or highlight different data and info.
‘Tour’ features a big map. ‘Sport’ has a big tacho. ‘Cruise’ is a mixture of both.
During the journey I pulled over and switched the system to run Apple Car Play – mainly because of that inner geek.
Apple maps and all the Car Play apps work well – as long as there was a headset connected via Bluetooth. It’s also compatible with Android devices.
Most Importantly.
It’s also critical to note that until you are familiar with the reasonably complicated display and connectivity options of the new systems, and the significant number of menus and drop-downs it has available, stopping to make your selections is paramount.
It’s very easy to get distracted by the process and take eyes off the road - with the obvious implications thereof.
After dinner, I sat in the old boy’s garage and started to really drill down into the options.
Once familiar with the layouts it all became much easier to do on the fly – but circumspection is still paramount.
Existing ‘Boom’ Box equipped Touring model owners will make the transition to new interface and its revised toggle controls and switches intuitively.
It just has more layers of control and enhanced options.
It took me a short while to get comfortable with the new switchgear - and not hit the intercom button instead of the indicators. But it didn’t take long to bed in, and once I had some muscle memory established, the controls came to hand well. Even the improved cruise control switches - and the nifty way those settings are displayed on the screen.
First Impressions.
Initial impressions on the first ride across Sydney were that indeed it’s very a large motorcycle.
It feels like it at low speed where it is a lot of bike, particularly on a gravel verge or throwing a tight U-turn when looking for a photo opportunity.
Conversely, doing what it’s actually meant for, rolling away big distances in comfort, safety and style, well, then it’s nimble and feels as light as a feather. Even more impressive considering it is 393kg in running order, has mini ape hangers, and notably wide bodywork.
Towards the end of the near 2,000km test period, I was comfortably lane splitting at low speed along a gridlocked Motorway or comfortably performing tight manoeuvres on instinct.
Points North.
After fond farewells, an early Saturday morning start saw reasonably light traffic as I made my way South to North across the city.
The bike has a selection of ride modes, all switchable on the fly (no need to stop) via a reverse toggle on the right-hand indicator.
Sport, Road, Rain and two fully customisable modes – the latter of which I didn’t engage at all –because I was very happy with the three standard modes – and I did employ all three during the journey.
In the urban sprawl, and onto the M1 at Hornsby and beyond, I left it in ‘Road’ mode.
This sees the engine response a little more relaxed than the ‘Sport’ option and well suited to the clear run I had all the way up to the approaches to Hexham, north of Newcastle.
No fear.
The first section at Freeway speeds also allayed one of my biggest concerns before the ride.
In the past, a standard Road Glide’s screen and bodywork has generated a lot of uncomfortable turbulence and buffeting for tall riders – usually necessitating an aftermarket windscreen.
But the new bodywork, taller handlebars, improved ergos – with nice touches like the adjustable brake levers – are a delight.
I got a bit of noise off the new screen, but minimal buffeting and reasonably good protection, (apart from my hands - but more of that later.)
It really is that good. Harley claims wind tunnel testing has reduced buffeting by 60%. I believe it, and the large equalisation vent under the screen allows the wind flow to be directed optimally. As do the wind deflectors fitted to the lower fairing.
Full stop.
Just north of Newcastle, the motorway constricts, from 4 lanes, to two lanes, to one lane, to cross the Hunter River.
As expected, it took nearly an hour to get beyond Raymond Terrace in the holiday traffic.
The bike’s EITMS (Engine Idle Temperature Management) system kicks in seamlessly in the hot going and it has a loud fan for the dual-cooled engine’s radiator. A sound that made this old Buell XB12 enthusiast reminisce fondly.
The heat shields around the motor and under the seat worked well, as did my new Paradigm Triple Vent V2.0 leather jacket (see side bar). I remained reasonably comfortable in the heavy going all the way up to Karuah and the turnoff to The Buckets Way.
Up the Middle.
The goal in planning the ride was to take the twistiest route viable, to avoid as much of the pre-Christmas holiday traffic as possible, and to present the bike with a variety of roads and conditions. It worked perfectly.
From the moment I left the freeway, and all the way through to Brisbane I hardly had another vehicle in front of me.
The quickest route would have been to head straight up the M1, which is pretty much dual carriageway all the way. Efficient, but incredibly boring on a bike.
It also would have entailed passing through the Gold Coast and that section of Freeway which becomes an extended parking lot at peak times.
The other popular alternative is the New England Highway, via Tamworth. Apart from the climb to the New England plateau, that too is rather straight and open. And I suspected the traffic would be equally heavy that way as well.
Getting Better.
But taking The Bucketts Way and Thuderbolts Way to Armidale on day one proved simply glorious.
Once clear of the coast, I was met with partly cloudy conditions as the road rolls through quite magnificent countryside of meandering streams and lush, green and gentle hills.
After a sandwich and cuppa in picturesque Gloucester it was on to Thunderbolts Way and the foothills of the Great Dividing Range towards Armidale, where, to my delight, the first part of the ascent has been resurfaced.
It’s smooth and was twisty enough to be worthy of the CVO, because the torque, grunt and smoothness of the new engine is quite magnificent.
I first noticed how good the top gear wind-on from the new 121-cube VVT motor is back on the Freeway. It’s turbine-like smooth and its 139 ft.lb of torque is delivery is superbly.
All 115 of its horsepower are served up in all the right places too, particularly when I switched to Sports mode.
Combined with the new suspension package it makes for a big bike that really is very rewarding to tip in.
The front end has been fitted with 47mm Showa inverted forks – with 117mm of travel, and even though they are non-adjustable, it’s a lovely setup.
The rear has been upgraded with Showa components too. These took me a little while to get set right as they now have combination of pre-load adjustments - and they also feature adjustable rebound damping.
The primary pre-load setting is via a traditional thread and lock ring to compress the spring on the right-hand shock. This requires removal of the pannier and a H-D C-spanner.
However, once set, fine tuning and adding additional pre-load (up to approx. 40kg), can be done with a remote knob located under the left-hand pannier – this doesn’t need the bags to come off.
Damping adjustment is via a dial at the base of the shocks – and that does need the panniers off. Removing the bags is simple enough, just having somewhere to put them without scratching them is the biggest challenge.
I found it needed more pre-load than the owner’s manual recommended, (the manual is downloadable from the H-D app) but once dialled-in, it was pretty good – particularly on the good tarmac. I didn’t scrape the footboards or touch anything down, even when hooking in quite vigorously at times.
It just felt lovely, stable and planted.
H-D does make a point about the fact that the rear now has double the previous model’s suspension travel, but its three inches is still on the minimal side for the conditions on Australian Roads – particularly up in the high country. If it was my bike, I’d fit the Screamin’ Eagle Ohlins upgrade and jack it up a bit more.
Once up on the tablelands the countryside really opened up and the run into Armidale saw me engage the cruise control on the almost-empty roads, and sit back and watch it all roll by in great comfort – and style, while rocking my favourite playlist inside my helmet.
Keep smiling.
Even a stop to put on wet weathers as the skies darkened near Uralla couldn’t dampen the mood.
I reached Armidale in slight drizzle and checked in to the cheap and cheerful ‘Estelle Kramer Motor Inn’ (which I recommended), unloaded the panniers, and set off on a cruise around the Cathedral city looking for photo opportunities after the rain conveniently cleared.
After that, a burger and an early night, with an occasional eye on the satellite weather images, ensued.
Riding Home for Christmas.
I delayed my departure for an hour on Sunday morning, hoping the worst of the storms that were showing around Grafton would blow over by the time I got there.
Rarely has a plan failed so dismally, but it was another wonderful day of motorcycling, nonetheless.
The first part of the run was across the scenic high country, heading east along Waterfall Way, was in partly cloudy and gradually cooling conditions.
As I turned on to Armidale Road and began the descent from the ranges it was 12c and it started really pelting down.
Going down that tight, steep ravine, where the road surface has been badly chopped up by a combination of recent flooding and heavy vehicles, in a torrential thunderstorm, is probably the most treacherous the roads in northern NSW or Qld can get.
A test for man and machine – and I loved it.
The bike is fitted with Harley’s Rider Safety Enhancements and some of these did come into play during ‘that terrible descent’.
The systems include Cornering Electronically Linked Brakes, Cornering ABS, Cornering Traction Control Cornering, Drag Torque Slip Control, as well as Vehicle Hold Control and Tyre Pressure Monitoring.
I know some old schoolers pooh-pooh some of this tech, but I was sure glad of it.
At the top of the hill, I engaged ‘Rain’ mode and as I came around one tight right-hander the road had been badly deformed, subsequently repaired, and then had deformed again.
The result was a ramp of slippery-smooth new bitumen that stretched across the entire lane.
Even at my due-caution speed, the front wheel had nowhere to go but airborne, “Oh this will be interesting.” I muttered into my helmet, amongst other expletives, and reached for the picks.
But as it touched down the tick-tick-tick of the all-so-clever linked ABS and traction systems kicked in - and it was all tickety-boo in next to no time.
I don’t think it saved me from crashing, and an embarrassing $62,450 phone call, but it probably did stop me from ending up on the wrong side of a mountain road - and those implications.
After I un-puckered, the rest of the run down to hill was unremarkable, apart from the torrential rain.
Torrents in Grafton
By the time I got to Grafton it was raining like it seems it can only do in Grafton.
It was hosing down, so I just thanked goodness for my effective rain over-suit and boots and how sure footed the bike is.
The only issue was that the mini-apes leave hands somewhat exposed to the elements, so I turned on the CVO’s 3 position heated grips to compensate for my saturated gauntlets and rode on.
Through the Northern Rivers region and along Summerland Way, with a stop for a pie in Casino and then on to Kyogle, was through some more fine countryside and thankfully the sun was out in patches again.
From there I headed northwest over Mt Lindesay, switched the bike back to Sports Riding mode and hooked in again – as much as the occasional surface water in those hairpins would allow.
Back on the Queensland side I took the run straight up the Mt Lindesay Hwy via Beaudesert and on to Brizzy base, to be home by mid-afternoon.
I arrived a little weary from some long periods of intense concentration, but very, very content. Sated. Like a great ride on a fabulous bike will do for you.
And that the thing. It is a great machine. And this was only the first part of the test, but it was a comprehensive beginning, with a near 1,100km gamut of roads and riding conditions covered.
Part 2 - But wait, there’s more.
Over the next two weeks I racked up another 800km of riding around Brisbane and environs, with day rides to the Hinterlands, and a lot general running about and doing errands.
This is where I really did appreciate some of the added CVO niceties and the versatility of the bike.
The large panniers have good capacity, even with the impressive stereo components built into the lids. They feature central locking, either from the screen or a button on the stylish fob.
The audio system is powered by Rockford Fosgate with 150 watts RMS per speakers and it has multiple equalizer presets built-in and a 7 Band EQ is available for creating custom settings. The amplifier is good for 500watts!
I didn’t use it much, preferring in-ear sound or my Forcite helmet’s speakers, but when I did crank it up … well, it sure cranks.
The infotainment did sometimes need reconnection to my phone or headsets before setting off on a new ride, but overall the Bluetooth pairing remained reliable and was easily re-established.
The other bits
The headlight is brilliant – figuratively and literally, as are the rest of the all-new touches the bike features throughout. The CVO fruit, mirrors, footboards, pegs, grips, pinstriping etc etc etc. It’s all what we’ve come to expect from a CVO. The mirrors are as good as it gets.
The saddle took a while to break in, and I got some butt-ache initially, but by the time it had 2,500km on the clock it I was good for extended runs. I did a 350km day to the Gold Coast and could have done a lot more by the end of it.
I also thought the fuel economy was also very impressive – the trip computer calculated 23.3km/l on the Sydney Brisbane run – for a 1,977cc engine. Also pleasing was the 400-plus km range from the 22.7ltr tank.
Conclusions.
We’ve covered the new tech that that has gone into the 121-cube VVT powerplant in detail over previous editions of HEAVY DUTY – from Mick’s launch report – to Paul’s comprehensive Street Glide write-up - as well as going over many of the bikes performance features.
Suffice to say that, from my experience, after what has been one of the most comprehensive tests I’ve compiled over the last 22 years of evaluating Harley-Davidsons, I found this a very easy conclusion to draw.
Overall there are a few upgrades I’d consider for the CVO Road Glide, and some of its inclusions, like the expensive stereo for example, don’t speak to my personal preferences.
This is easily the best stock Harley I’ve ever ridden.
But the nub is that this is easily the best stock Harley I’ve ever ridden, or that the Motorco has built - so far.
There was a moment coming up the hill from Gloucester to the tablelands when a line from the Springsteen classic ‘Cadillac Ranch’ popped at random into my head: “Rides just like a little bit of heaven here on earth.”
It's an absolute delight. And yes, for the money it would want to be. But really, WHAT a machine!
Christmas was an absolute cracker.
Livin’ the dream.
Guts and Bolts
Performance
Power115 hp
Torque139 ft.lb
Running order393kg
Economy23.3km/l on test
Engine
TypeMilwaukee-Eight 121 VVT
Capacity1,977cc
CoolingDual-cooled
ModesSport, Road, Rain + custom
Frame
Front suspension47mm Showa inverted forks
Front travel117mm
Rear suspensionShowa shocks with preload and rebound adjustment
SafetyCornering ABS, linked brakes, traction control
Touring
Fuel capacity22.7 litres
Range400km-plus
Display312mm TFT touchscreen
AudioRockford Fosgate
Road Notes
Things I liked
That Engine
The Handling
The Technology.
Things I didn’t
Rear Suspension Travel
Reconnecting Bluetooth Devices
Saddle before break in.
Things I’d change
Fit a stage one kit
SE Ohlins Upgrade
Pillion backrest